Day Trip to Umm Qais, Ajloun, and Jerash

Marhaba, world!

(Yes, that means 'hello' in Arabic :))

I'm so sorry I've been horrible at keeping everyone posted on my experiences here in Jordan! The work load here is much more than what I imagined. Along with my Arabic classes, I also have English classes with a lot of readings. However, I cannot complain because since my last post, my time here in Irbid has been great! Well... except for being sick for about a week because of the food here... but that's a story for a rainy day!

What I have been dying to post about for the past few days is this past weekend. The program here has two big planned trip for us during the semester, and the first one was a day trip to Umm Qais, Ajloun castle, and Jerash.  It was an extremely long day, from leaving at 8 in the morning to walking around and seeing ancient Roman ruins and a castle all day until around 8 at night. It was also a chance to walk around and talk with our language partners.  My language partner was not able to be there, however, but my virtual language partner's friend was there, and she was more than willing to step in and be my language partner for the day.

The day began by having to meet outside our apartment buildings at 7:50 in the morning in order to board the bus and leave by 8.  We were all groggy and not ready to wake up, but we managed to show some enthusiasm for the adventures that were about to unfold.

Our first stop was Umm Qais. This archaeological site is nestled in the north-east corner of Jordan, and in fact, on a clear non-foggy day, you are able to see both the Syrian and Israeli borders from the site  We arrived there at around 9, so there was still fog and clouds making the site appear mysterious and ominous.  We only had about two hours to explore the ancient Roman ruins, so we had to hurry and see all that we could.

On a clear day, you can see both the Syrian and Israeli borders.

We came upon the Roman amphitheater first.  This structure was impressively large and very well preserved.  Later, in my archaeology class, I learned it was constructed out of volcanic rock, which is why it was a dark gray color.  When I climbed to the top of it, I was able to see for miles and miles into the Jordanian countryside.  It was absolutely amazing.

After the amphitheater, the rest of the site consisted mostly of columns and structures that were only half, or maybe even less, still intact.  Since we did have a tour guide leading us around and telling us about the history, we had to make our own fun:

No rules saying we couldn't sit and climb on the ruins!

After Umm Qais, we had a long bus ride to Ajloun. During the bus ride there, our language partners began to sing and chant Arabic songs and encouraged us to join in.  They then asked us to sign and chant popular American songs.  The entire bus ride consisted of singing and chanting and laughter, making the hour and a half bus ride seem like no time at all.  Later, after we got back from our trip, I learned that the bus driver had gotten lost and that's why the bus ride so long... I never would have known!

When we got to Ajloun, the bus dropped us off about only half way up the mountain on which the castle is built.  The hike up was treacherous, but what we came upon was more than worth it.  Once you get up to the top of the mountain you are welcomed by a huge Islamic castle that was built and used by Saladin's army during the Crusades.  I have always been very intrigued and interested in the Crusades, so I thought this was just wonderful. Again, we were not lead around by tour guides, so we were able to just explore the castle.

Ajloun Castle

We climbed all the way to the top of the castle and we were quickly astounded by the views that awaited us.  By climbing to the top, we had a 360 view of the Jordanian countryside and the city of Ajloun.

Views from atop Ajoun Castle.

Our last stop was Jerash.  Before we got into the archeological site, we were met with a quaint, little tourist market. Even our language partners were eager to buy little souvenirs and they helped us talk the price down of our purchases.  After, that we were led outside to the Roman city of Jerash.

So, I've been to Rome and seen the Colosseum and the Roman forum, but the Roman ruin site in Jerash, in my opinion, was even better.  The Roman ruins in Jerash are preserved much better than those in Rome, therefore, they are aesthetically more pleasing. Also, because much of the ruins are still intact, you are able to get an idea of how this city may have looked back in Roman time. In Rome, I did not get that feeling.

The entrance to the Roman ruins site is enough to get you excited, and then you pass by the hippodrome, where horse and chariot races were once held.  You are then led down a long Roman road into an enormous oval Forum.  From there you can go either up to the Temple of Zeus and the first amphitheater, you can keep going straight which leads to the Temple of Artemis and another amphitheater.

Entrance to the ancient Roman ruins of Jerash.

The oval Forum

We went up to the first amphitheater, and I was more impressed with it than even the Colosseum.  Although it was not as large as the Colosseum, it had much more detail and almost all, if not all, of it was still intact. In fact, there are still concerts held at the theater with musicals guests coming from all over the world.  We spent a while at the theater taking pictures and just taking in the history and imagining what it must have been like back in Roman times.  When we were about to leave, a two-man bagpipe group came and played a couple of songs, which encouraged some people to come and do a traditional Arab dance. Of course, me, loving all types of dance joined in and learned this traditional dance.  It was probably one of my top three favorite moment in Jordan so far.

One of two amphitheaters at Jerash

After leaving the amphitheater, we were only able to see a little more of this endless Roman city.  We walked down the road leading to the Temple of Artemis, but we only got half way and had to go back. There is so much of this ancient city that I was not able to see, so I am most definitely going back one weekend to see the rest. Many in the program feel the same way. For only 50 qirsh (less than a dollar) to get into the site, there is no reason not to go back.

This trip was one of a kind and has made me even more enthusiastic for the rest of the semester.  I have always been interested in ancient Roman history, so this day was mesmerizing for me.  I never thought I would see better Roman ruins outside of Roman, but Jordan has certainly surprised me.

Transition

Hello, everyone! I know it's been a while since my last post, but I'm back! I've been trying to get accustomed to Irbid, and to be quite honest, it's been a hard transition. I mentioned some culture shocks in my last post, but the past week and half I have been dealing with transitioning to speaking entirely in Arabic. I've only taken formal Arabic classes at Syracuse University, so when I came here, I knew no spoken Arabic and it is hard for the people here in the restaurants and stores to understand me.  Here at Yarmouk University in Irbid, I have Arabic class for three hours a day, Sunday-Thursday.  Last week, the classes were all in the spoken Arabic, so I feel as though I have learned an entirely new language. Now, when I go into a store or restaurant here, I can at least get across what I want. The language barrier has been hard, but my Arabic is getting better and better everyday, and will continue to improve as the semester goes on.

Although the transition has been hard, I am beginning to see the good and the beauty in this city, which is key to over-coming the differences between here and back home in the United States. First of all, Arabic food is great and is cheap, cheap, cheap. Every day during my break between Arabic classes, I get a falafel sandwich with either a bottled water or soda, and it costs under a Jordanian dollar, and when converted to the American dollar, it's still under a dollar! If I bought something like that in the US, it would costs probably around $4, or more. But just wait... that's not the extent of it. When we go to a restaurant, we are able to get literally a feast, food just covering our table, for around 5 US dollars per person. It's crazy awesome! And the food is delicious :)

Arabic feast for 5 US dollars per person.

This past week, I began my other classes here which will be taught in English.  My first class is called Jordan and the Modern Middle East. It's a political class that goes into the politics of this Islamic country and also its relations with surrounding countries. My other class is the class that I am most excited for this semester. It's called the Archaeological History of Jordan.  First off, the professor is awesome. On the first day of class, the four of us who are in the class sat in her office, drank tea, and just talked. We, of course, went over what we would be doing for the semester, and that just made me even more excited. We will be going some place new, whether its the museum that's right on campus or to a near-by town, for every class.  On the weekends, we will travel to cities farther away, like Amman and Kerak and cities that boast ancient Islamic castles.  Needless to say, this class has made me feel better knowing that I will have the opportunity to travel around this country that has thousands of years of history.

Today for my archaeology class, our professor took us downtown to eat the 'best falafel in Irbid' and do some shopping at the markets.  The falafel sandwiches that our professor bought for us were definitely delicious, however, I feel as though all falafel tastes the same... but that's just me, haha.  Our professor's friend then took us around downtown to the markets and helped us barter with the men in the shops.

Here's some pictures I took today of downtown and the markets:

Sign outside the place with the 'best falafel in Irbid'

Downtown Irbid

Market in downtown Irbid

Streets of downtown Irbid

My classes have definitely made me feel better about being here, however, I have to say that it is the people here that make me see the good in Irbid.  From my professors who are patient and eager to teach us to the people that we just meet on the streets, every where you go in this city you meet a kind and happy person who wants to make you feel like you're home.  The guy at the falafel sandwich stand where I buy my lunch everyday recognizes me and knows my order.  The guy at the fruit and vegetable stand knows me and my friends when we come in and teaches us the Arabic words to all the fruits and vegetables.  The waiter at the chicken tikka restaurant who wanted to practice English with me passed by me on the street, recognized me and said hi and asked how I was.  I truly believe that I have not met a single rude or ignorant person here, and during a tough transition, that means the world.

Although Irbid, Jordan does not have much history and is not aesthetically pleasing, the people of this city is what makes Irbid beautiful.  I could have very easily gone abroad to a city that has beautiful scenery, history, and a vibrant nightlife, but I would not be getting the same experiences as I am here.  I am getting a true cultural experience. I am seeing the real Middle East.